That’s fair, although I think that depends a lot on the type of car you drive. There’s an option to tell Maps what type of car you drive (electric, hybrid, or gas), which will change the results, because cars with regenerative breaking often get better “city” milage than “highway” milage.

It also probably depends on factors like how aerodynamic your vehicle is, because it makes a huge difference above ~50mph (air resistance/drag increases exponentially with speed)

It does indicate the “fuel efficient” route pretty clearly though, and always gives multiple other options including the quickest one that isn’t as efficient. If this is what’s causing the issue, OP just needs to look closer at what’s on their screen.

It’s pretty hard though. Without mass, everything travels at the speed of light and doesn’t experience the flow of time, which don’t really mesh well with classical physics (or quantum mechanics, and definitely not relativity).

Basically the scheme from Office Space

Pretty much every food regulatory agency in the world has deemed aspartame safe. There were some worrying studies all the way back in the '70’s, but those were almost certainly bogus due to conflicts of interest with the sugar industry. It’s just as safe as MSG, which I personally believe people get so worked up over just because it has a “scary-sounding” chemical name.

Okay so genuine question from someone who’s used various distros for all sorts of things over the years, just never as a daily driver. What sorts of things have caused your revulsion towards Windows? Aside from Microsoft’s bullcrap like Alexa or MS Store ads which can all be disabled, I’ve personally never had enough of a problem with Windows that justified the effort required to move away from it. And I would consider myself a power user who loves to customize things.

Again, I just want to genuinely understand what sorts of problems people have that cause them to hate using Windows that much, even if they’re just subjective things.

The reason they aren’t is because methods for cracking DRM like Widevine are kept extremely secret so that the exploits don’t get patched. It does mean that a lot of content is locked to whatever the scene decides is worth their time to crack and distribute, but if anyone made the methods they use public, they would stop working very quickly.

You will need a bank account to do pretty much anything in adult life. So, I would recommend opening an account at a local credit union. Credit unions are small and owned by their members, so they won’t sell your info to anyone or send you ads. There are many other pros to using a credit union instead of a large bank, but privacy is a big one.

These look very similar, although the listing is a bit vague on the specifics.

Could you post a picture of one of the bulbs? It would definitely help narrow things down

If you still use Amazon, get the CamelCamelCamel addon. It shows you a graph of how the price of an item has changed, so you can see if a sale is really a discount of just one of these fake “sales”.

I would look for a dongle that specifically markets itself as being Raspberry Pi compatible. Most stuff you find will prioritize Windows, but if it’s marketed to work with the Pi you know it’ll have at least some level of Linux compatibility. Once you find one, try to figure out what chipset it uses, then search if it’s supported by a handful of the distros you wanna try.

That’s what I thought too, but this system doesn’t actually use salt water. It uses a membrane that’s filled with lithium bromide (a “salt” in the chemical sense of the word), which absorbs moisture from the air while the computer is off and then is able to slowly “sweat” the moisture away while the computer is running. They say it can run for about 6.5 hours before needing to be recharged.

This is pretty cool for data centers which use massive amounts of power to keep everything cool, because it’s passive and doesn’t use any extra energy for fans or water pumps or anything. It really isn’t all that great for consumer PCs though, because it’s a lot easier to deal with waste heat.

In that case, I don’t think the problem is with Arch. The battery is likely shot, as going from partly charged -> dead that quickly is a very common symptom of one that’s reached the end of its life.

When you say you need to connect the charger to get it to boot up again, do you mean boot to Linux or even to just show the BIOS? If the former, it might be that the battery level isn’t being read correctly by the OS, but if it’s the latter, the battery or its related circuitry is likely failing and you’ll need a replacement battery.

Personally I would definitely recommend starting with a live USB. It’s rare, but I’ve had a few times where setting up dual-boot broke the bootloader somehow and getting it back was a massive pain in the ass.

Can second this, it’s especially helpful for dealing with a bunch of unit conversions. I also used Symbolab a lot for Diff. Eq,. and since it was only a 5 week class it was worth paying for their premium so it shows you all the steps.

Handbreak is just a GUI for FFmpeg, so the only thing it could be is your settings. Are you using the -c:a copy option with FFmpeg to copy the audio instead of transcoding it?

As far as I know, HD-DVD was a competitor to BluRay and so it’s not compatible with BluRay drives. You’ll need to find one that works with HD-DVDs specifically.

This is literally just a type of NFC. The same type of thing that’s used whenever you scan your credit card or use an Amiibo. It is interesting that it doesn’t use RFID standards, but conceptually it’s the same idea of an ultra-low-power chip with an antenna with the only purpose being to transmit a few bytes of data when scanned.